Fashion Ecosystem
Vietnam and the road towards redefining a sustainable fashion ecosystem. Ultimately, what does sustainability in fashion mean?
Instead of viewing fashion through the conventional lens, and trying to find piecemeal solutions in the name of sustainability that only addresses selected aspects of the industry, it is time to rethink fashion as an “ecosystem”.
Vietnam’s unique position in the textile industry.
The textile and garment industry of Vietnam is one of the largest in the world. Careful studies have shown that the Vietnamese garment and textile industry contributes about 15% to the country’s gross domestic product with an 18% increment in exports each year.
On a macro level, Vietnam is the world’s third largest exporters of textiles. Countries such as United States, Japan and South Korea, along with the European Union, are the major destinations where Vietnam exports to.
In the first two months of 2015, figures showed that the garment exports from Vietnam burgeoned 12%, hitting close to 3.3 billion US dollar. Given a strong governmental support within its domestic market, as well as free trade agreements with countries in Asia-Pacific, Vietnam is rapidly growing, rising up to be one of the titans in the textile and apparel industry.
Year after year, the industry records a steady and gradual expansion as well as an increase in profits. On the export front, United States is the largest exporter in the world, followed by Japan. Forecast has shown that in the coming years, China will become the second largest export market. However there will come a time when this major player in the industry scales down its global textile and apparel trade. This will create a shift in textile production, casting a spotlight on Vietnam, which will have no problem stepping in to fill the shoes of a giant.
However, Vietnam is the not sole country with the capacity to generate supply voluminous enough to satiate a rising global demand for textiles. Low-cost countries like Bangladesh, India and Indonesia are also eyeing a slice of this pie. While these countries have more material and labour resources, political stability and social safety will give Vietnam an edge over its competitors. Vietnam has shown its commitment to bring forth economic reforms to aid the country’s development, which makes it an attractive option for investors.
Internally in Vietnam, there are said to be over 6000 apparel firms operating within the country. In terms of employment and job opportunities, the textile industry has contributed greatly to the Vietnamese economy with its workforce numbered at over two million.
While the Vietnamese textile and garment industry has superseded expectations, and carved out a name for being one of the largest industries in the world, there is still a great and dire need for this industry to incorporate sustainability in their textile production.
The need to define fashion as an ecosystem.
Instead of viewing fashion through the conventional lens, and trying to find piecemeal solutions in the name of sustainability that only addresses selected aspects of the industry, it is time to rethink fashion as an ecosystem.
From design to production to supply chains, the journey of every textile item is interlinked at each stage. Businesses and consumers need to realise that if the chain is broken, there will be consequences that ripple through the system.
The production of textiles generates massive amount of pollution and wastage, while demanding a large input of raw materials. It is evident why fashion, especially fast fashion, is one of the major pollutants in the world today.
Fast fashion demands mass production that puts stress on the environment. To accommodate a rising demand for labour, human trafficking cases will rise in less developed areas. In the name of profit and progress, humanity is lost, as individuals become commodities to be trafficked and traded.
Fast fashion also encourages the sale of clothing at incredible low prices. Getting consumers excited at newer and cheaper clothing is the objective. Amidst this flurry of commercial consumption, buyers are desensitised. People fail to question how clothing can be made so cheaply. Not many would care to thoroughly investigate the materials used in the clothing they wear, as well as the health effects cheap clothing imposes on the wearers.
In the age of climate change, where people across the world are already suffering the impact of global warming, the time is now for everyone to act in a responsible and accountable manner. It is vital for consumers to slow down, to demand answers, and to be aware.
How brands can incorporate sustainability in fashion.
Ultimately, what does sustainability in fashion mean?
First and foremost, sustainable practices in textile and garment production should involve the manufacturing of products in a manner that is safe for the environment, as well as be beneficial for the people involved in the processes.
The concept of reuse, reduce and recycle can also be incorporated into the fashion industry, as more designers join the march calling out for a sustainable fashion ecosystem. Using less hazardous chemicals and materials, reducing water usage, and optimising energy utility for production will ensure cost effectiveness. It will also help to conserve our environment, protect the health, and safeguard the welfare of the people who work at the frontline of this industry.
Agencies have been set up to promote sustainability in textile and garment production. Take a look at ethical fashion forums, fair trade associations, and ethical trading initiatives. These platforms will help to create awareness and raise the yardstick for better fashion, at a slower pace.
Vietnam is standing at the threshold of a change. Due to its status in the industry, it has the power to lead others into a sustainable way of producing fashion.
The Vietnamese textile industry is known far and wide for its vast knowledge of textiles and garment. From the unique craftsmanship to the excellently skilled workers, it is no wonder that Vietnam has risen up the ranks.
What Vietnam’s ethnic tribes is teaching the world.
Vietnam’s heritage has primed the country as a suitable candidate for championing sustainability in fashion. Made up of 54 ethnic tribes, Vietnam has a diverse microculture dotted along a unique landscape. Vietnamese tribal textile practices offer a treasure trove of knowledge which can be harnessed, along with insights which can inspire designers and textile-makers.
Each tribe is known to be associated with a unique colour, or to incorporate a specific pattern with their clothing. The Red Dao tribe can be distinguished for their dashing red costumes laced with intricately embroidered motifs, coins, and tassel. The flower H'mong tribe are known for their fusion of beautiful colours and fringe designs. The blue H’mong tribe is renowned for its indigo blue garments dyed from natural Indigo plants. These features serve as a part of identity for each of the tribe member, but to the outside world, the colours, textures and designs are refreshing and inspiring.
The techniques required to produce these garments are ancestral knowledge that has been passed down through the generations. There is almost no written information on these skills. Everything is taught through show, tell, learn, do and correct, and it takes decades to master each technique.
The production of tribal clothing is truly sustainable. Since everything is made to order, there is no wastage, and very little pollution. There is a give and take relationship with nature, and a sense of respect for the surrounding, borne out of reliance.
Weaving the future.
Much can still be done to translate the beauty of Vietnam’s traditional textile techniques into current fashion. The textile industry in Vietnam can encourage brands to incorporate tribal motifs in textile projects, or organise collaboration with international brands to highlight and utilise selected tribal textile skills, while giving the tribes the credit they deserve.
The ideology of sustainability flows through to the preservation of ethnic traditions. International brands can also support the tribes by giving them a platform to showcase their fashions and traditional textile techniques. Through direct and indirect means of support, the ethnic communities will then be empowered to improve their lives, while being convinced of the value of their crafts.
Tourism can also help with the preservation of textile traditions. Responsible and sustainable travel not only open the eyes of visitors to the situation faced by ethnic communities, it also gives the travellers an opportunity to explore a sustainable art form of producing garments entirely by hand, from thread to cloth.
Looking at fashion from a broader view allows us to see better how everyone is connected.
As an ecosystem, we are all interdependent. From the tribes tucked away amidst mountains in the mist, holding on to an old way of life, to large corporations who decide to use their power to do good for the environment, no change is too big, no effort is too small. It is truly time to consider sustainable solutions throughout the fashion ecosystem, and we are proud to be a part of this campaign.
If reading about our retreats has piqued your curiosity, and you are eager to delve into the issue of how the fashion ecosystem can encourage and call for more sustainability, we are happy to welcome you to join us for our next trip.