Sustainability in Hanoi
The vibrant capital city of Vietnam, Hanoi, is said to be one of the largest manufacturers of clothing and textiles in the world.
We, at TextileSeekers, are passionate about working with companies interested in sourcing for sustainable materials in their garment manufacturing.
The chairman of the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association has stated in reports that the industry made over $31 billion profit in 2018. Without any doubt, the garment manufacturing industry is thriving. However, the existence of this industry has caused much environmental hazards that have greatly affected the locals in Hanoi. Given the severity of the issue, the Vietnamese government has implemented policies to enforce the textile-industry to adopt greener measures.
This green initiative was kickstarted in 2018, with the aim of converting the textile industry into one that is environmentally safe without losing profitability. Efforts are put in place to help the industry gear towards a more ethical business model.
There is now greater emphasis for companies to incorporate natural materials in the production of textiles, with bamboo being a favourite raw material. Including natural fibres in clothing production reduces the reliances on petrochemicals used to create synthetic fibres, resulting in more eco-friendly clothing.
Factories in Vietnam are increasingly trying to re-use the water that has been used in the process of fabric-making, cutting down on water wastage. To further reduce the use of industrial water, a process of ozone washing is carried out, where factories use ozone gas to strip the colour off fabrics instead of using chemicals that consume way more water.
Factories also use large amount of electricity and energy in the production of textiles. New designs have been implemented when constructing or renovating these factories, with eco-friendly features being added to aid in the cooling of infrastructures instead of relying solely on air conditioning. Natural alternatives like planting trees or installing vertical or rooftop gardens not only cuts down on the use of energy, but also beautifies modern industrial architecture.
TextileSeekers champions sustainability in fashion and we believe not only is the consumption of fashion worth looking into when contemplating on the issue of sustainability, the entire chain of textile manufacturing needs a revamp to make the process more environmentally friendly. We, at TextileSeekers, are passionate about working with companies interested in sourcing for sustainable materials in their garment manufacturing. While it might be difficult to navigate the manufacturing scene in Hanoi, Thao - founder of TextileSeekers has industry experience to consult and guide brands in seeking greener production alternatives.
On the TextileSeekers Hill Tribes tour to Sa Pa, our team of local guides and artisans are also enthusiastic about educating travellers on how the fashion and textile industry can strive for eco-friendly efforts, while showcasing traditional textile crafts which could possibly offer a sustainable solution for companies in terms of sourcing for textiles.
On a worldwide scale, answering the call for increase sustainability, many organisations have sprung up with certifications to protect consumers and the environment, while acting as a guideline for enterprises to adhere to. Consumers can use these certifications to help them make better choices and opt for clothing options that will contribute to a greater and greener cause.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): This is one of the most trusted certifications that is recognised worldwide. The certification covers the production, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of textile materials, with the requirement that the textiles are made with at least 70% organic natural fibres. This certification also indicates whether biodegradable and toxin-free dyes are used during manufacturing, and if the final products are free of toxic chemicals, allergens and carcinogenic elements. The certification can be attained globally and is usually used to certify raw fabric and textiles. However, before any product can be fully certified with this standard, it must meet the environmental standards and criteria meted out by the International Labour Organisation.
Oeko-Tex Standard: The Oeko-Tek standard tests for chemicals that are toxic to humans. This standard covers different levels of certifications, including leather standard, eco passport, detox to zero and so on, but the most common one is the standard 100, which usually applies to textile and fabric manufacturing industries. This certification covers a range of items, from raw materials used, textiles, accessories, to fabrics and so on. The organisation is based in Switzerland but the certification applies to products from around the world. With the objective of creating environmentally-friendly textiles, the certification also focuses on materials that do not contribute to air pollution.
Better Cotton Initiative: This is a non-profit organisation based in Switzerland and the UK, focused on certifying sustainably-sourced cotton. Upon seeing the BCI logo on a product, consumer can be certain that the cotton used in the item comes from a certified producer who is sourcing a percentage of their cotton in environmentally-friendly ways. For producers who are unable to go fully organic, this is a suitable standard that ensures some degree of sustainability, while encouraging these producers to continue improving on their sourcing and manufacturing methods.
Bluesign: This organisation is based in Switzerland as well, and the certification is given to manufacturers who produce textiles in an environmentally-friendly way. The organisation focuses on ensuring the production of textiles does not pose a threat to the environment, and is at the same time is perfectly safe for the people living around the textile-producing factories. The organisation also checks for traces of water pollution as well as looks into consumer and worker safety.
Cradle to Cradle (C2C): This organisation is located in California and Amsterdam, focusing on the circularity of products, which is why the certification is based on five main categories: Safety of material, reuse of material, renewable energy, reuse of water and social fairness.
Each product that is certified receives a certain achievement level in each category, ranging from basic to silver, platinum, bronze or gold. The overall certification is based on the lowest achievement. This certification covers more than just textiles, and extends to home goods, furniture, cleaning supplies, building materials and more.
It is believed that Cradle to Cradle has all the potential to make an impact in the textile industry since they do not solely focus on the ethics of production but they also encourage the circularity of products and raw materials, which will certainly shape the way enterprise and consumers perceive and manufacture goods.
NSF International: This standard was initially known as the National Sanitation Foundation, and the organisation is concerned with human and environmental safety. They ensure that industries do not cause harm to the surrounding environment in the course of their production. They also ensure that issues of water pollution do not arise at any stage of the manufacturing as well as taking care to see to the welfare of employees, making sure they work in in optimal conditions. This organisation is based in Michigan, and they certify clothing, home appliances, drinking water, nutritional supplements and an extensive range of products. Patagonia uses one of the NSF standards to ensure humane animal treatment is enforced in the production of their winter coats.
B Corp Certification: Unlike traditional businesses that focus on CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility), B Corporation aims to solve social and environmental issues through the power of business, urging companies to meet comprehensive and transparent performance standards on the social and environmental front, while advocating sustainability, ethical approach and inclusive economy that is fairer for all stakeholders involved.
Fair Wear Foundation: FWF is a non-profit organisation that verifies and improve working place conditions for employees in the garment manufacturing industry. The organisation works with companies, factories, trade unions, NGOs and even government in 11 countries around the world. With more than 80 member companies and over 120 brands under this standard, the reach and influence of FWF is extensive. Through sharing expertise, creating social dialogue and reinforcing relationships with all stakeholders, FWF is effective in bringing about positive change in the textile industry.
Ethical Trading Initiative: While many standards focus on environmental sustainability, ETI simply wants to protect the worker’s rights in global supply chains - an issue that can be easily overlooked. This standard adheres to nine base code provision and emphasises on making ethical improvements to the process of clothing production.
Eco-Age: Eco-Age wants to guide their clients in building responsible and sustainable business practices, while making a positive impact to the environment and the people who are involved. The preservation and conservation of heritage is an important element in the organisation’s modus operandi, as is making sure communities, animals or the environment are not abused.
Canopy: Canopy has zero-ed in on an important niche to protect, the forest. From forest conservation to helping the forest product supply chains become more sustainable, Canopy works mostly with book publishers and printers, but also plays an important role in creating environmentally-friendly solutions for fashion giants such as UNIQLO (Fast Retailing), Zara (Inditex) and H&M.
Good On You: Compared to the more traditional organisation pushing for change in the garment manufacturing industry, Good On You is fresh and savvy, having found a millennial ambassador in Emma Watson and also come up with an app for interested consumers to discover ethical brands. What’s great about Good On You is that they are making the issue of sustainability relatable to a younger generation, helping them make wiser choices in selecting the clothing they wish to wear and the cause they wish to champion. With a clear-cut message of “Good on the planet, people and animals. Good on you.”, their vision is simple yet precise.
1% For The Planet: This is an international organisation with the goal of giving back. Companies are urged to give back 1% of their sales, whether they have made a profit or not, based on the principle that businesses thrive on the resources they have taken from the planet, hence it is a duty to protect these resources. This simple message has motivated many global big brands to join in the movement.
There are many certifications out there, each with a mission to protect people or the planet. Being aware of these labels will definitely help you as a consumer look out for eco-focused brands to support. The issue of sustainability in fashion is slowly gaining traction and it is our hope that more companies and brands join this movement so that our environment and the people producing textiles are better protected in the long run.